Argentine Wine Tasting – Trapiche Oak Cask Cabernet 1997

Yeah, that’s right, 1997 vintage Trapiche Oak Cask Cabernet Sauvignon. At an Argentine wine tasting last night we got to try this along with many other wines from Mendoza… How was it? Disappointing. You always think that wine is meant to age indefinitely. But that is actually not the case. White wine especially is meant to be drunk young. It depends of course on where that white wine is from and how it was made. Argentine wine in general is a wine that is much more accessible when it is young because of the terroir of the Argentine wine regions.

Argentina is the only major wine producing country in the world to have a continental weather system. This would be opposed to a coastal weather system. California, Oregon, Washington, New Zealand, Australia, Chile, South Africa, Spain, Italy and France all have coastal weather systems because there is nothing that creates a barrier between the vineyards and the ocean. This allows the weather systems that form over the ocean (rain and storms mostly) to have a much greater effect on grape productions. This is why the concept of vintage and terroir was formed. If one year you have tons of rain and little sunshine, that will have a certain effect on the harvest. If another year you have very little rain, that will have a different effect.

In Argentina you have an enormous physical barrier between the wine regions and the ocean. It is called the Andes Mountains. The Andes are the second highest mountain range in the world and thus block the majority of the pacific weather patterns coming in from the west, from affecting the grape harvest. This also creates a very dry region, with over 300 days of sun per year. This is ideal for Malbec, especially, since Malbec has thin skins and is highly susceptible to rot and disease.

This dryness and abundant sunshine also create wines that have favorable and soft tannins at a very young age. Therefore Argentine wines are more drinkable, early in their lives and do not require as much aging. Higher end wines from Argentina, that come from very low yield vineyards, that have enough tannin and acid to make them age worthy certainly do exist, but the Trapiche Oak Cask line is not one of them, which is why it came out tired and without much expression.

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Argentina Wine Tasting – Tapiz Cabernet, Bodega Tapiz

When tasting wine in Buenos Aires one usually expects Malbec (and I hope after reading this Argentine wine tasting blog that you now expect to taste at least Torrontes and hopefully Bonarda at any authentic Argentine wine tasting!!). It is always a subject of discussion to figure out what the next grape varietal will be from Argentina. What will be the one that makes it big after Malbec?

Several wine bloggers and wine writers have written about how Torrontes will be the next big thing out of Argentina and almost none have written about Bonarda or Cabernet, the former being totally unknown even by many sommeliers who I have tasted in some of the finest restaurants in the Unites States. Cabernet Sauvignon of course is the most widely known red grape in the world and is second only to Chardonnay in its total wine world presence. It is truly a ubiquitous grape, having found a home in many regions of the world where its big tannic structure can fully develop and ripen.

But what of Argentine Cabernet? While I don’t think this is the next grape to come out of Argentina and shake up the world wine market, I do think that Argentina makes some of the best value priced Cabernet in the world. Argentina does not have the terroir to truly compete with France for top of the line wine, but for wines priced between 10 and 25 dollars retail they certainly do.

One of the wines that is in this price point is the Tapiz Cabernet from Bodega Tapiz. This wine is a well priced value that exhibits classic Cabernet expression for a reasonable price. From a blend of vineyards in Agrelo and Tupungato, Mendoza and 10 months of barrel aging in both French and American oak, this wine has a nice nose of red fruits and cassis. The mouth has very nice structure and is full bodied with fruits of cassis and spices like black pepper.

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Argentine Wine Review – Tapiz Torrontes, Bodega Tapiz

I had the pleasure of tasting this 100% Torrontes from the La Rioja province with some friends on a warm sunny day. I always find that Torrontes goes extremely well with the concept of a warm sunny day. The typical pale yellow color of Torrontes is where it all starts but then you have the typical descriptors of white flowers and honey to go along with this concept, as well as the dryness in the mouth.

Torrontes is referred to, in Spanish, as “La Uva Mentirosa”, or the liar’s grape. Why? Well typically the nose of Torrontes is super sweet and floral. We use descriptors like jasmin, orange blossom and honeysuckle to describe it. However the mouth, usually belies the sweet nose with a dry expression. Hence the nickname.

This particular Torrontes, from Bodega Tapiz is from the Famatina Valley in the La Rioja province of Argentina. The altitude is between 1000 and 1400 meters in altitude (about 3000 to 4500 feet) and the soil is sandy and alluvial.

While the best region for producing Torrontes is considered to be Cafayate, Salta, La Rioja is considered to be a good region as well as it is still very high in altitude. What tends to happen as you go down in altitude with Torrontes is the wine tends to come out a little more rich, with less acidity, and less expression in the nose than the huge bouquet you would get from a Torrontes from Salta like the Mairena Torrontes or the Carinae Torrontes.

Nevertheless what you have is a pleasant Torrontes with a light aroma of the Crabtree and Evelyn store. The body is medium light with a nice richness to it. The flavors consist of tart pear and canned peach with hints of orange rind. The Tapiz winery also produces the Zolo brand which you have undoubtedly seen on shelves somewhere near you.

For more info check out www.bodega-tapiz.com.ar

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Argentina Wine Review – Altocedro Reserve Malbec

One always wonders how much more quality can improve when you spend more money on a wine. With wines from France and California going up into the thousands of dollars per bottle, and wines from Argentina going up into the hundres, you really have to think about whether it is worth it to spend the money. Even when we talk about wines of about 30 dollars per bottle we have to think about how much quality we are getting for those dollars.

A few days ago I tried the Altocedro Malbec Reserve from the Altocedro Winery located in La Consulta, Valle de Uco, Mendoza at over 1100 meters above sea level. The Altocedro winery has 3 different vineyards comprising about 24 hectares (55 acres or so). All the vines are between 50 and 70 years of age and the winery practices what it calls “non-invasive” farming, being as hands off as possible.

This wine had excellent concentration and very nice integration of the oak with the wine, even though it had seen 15 months in new french barrels. On the nose a nice cocoa aroma with dark fruits and a hint of spice was notable. In the mouth this is a full and rich wine with lots of flavor. More chocolate notes are present along with a nice ripe blackberry flavor and soft tannins.

This wine usually sells for about 38 dollars per bottle retail, which means that you will have lots of choices out there at that price point (and well before you reach that price point) that will tempt you. If this wine were 28 dollars per bottle it would be a steal and I would recommend it without any hesitation. If you can taste it before you buy that is certainly recommendable, as there is nothing wrong with this wine whatsoever, but for those who have never spend that amount of money on a wine before, may want to tread cautiously.

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Buenos Aires Restaurant Review – Artemisia

Last night I went to Artemisia, a natural and organic foods restaurant in Palermo. It’s close to the bars and plazas of Palermo Soho, but still a bit off the beaten path (Francisco Acuna de Figueroa y Cabrera). Upon walking in I was immediately charmed. The ambiance is like walking into a friend’s apartment—small, cozy, and intimate. There was Klimt-esque artwork on the walls and comfy armchairs with a sofa in the front. We were led to our seats and brought the menu and a piece of paper with the specials of the day scrawled in pen.

My boyfriend chose the Pesca Thai, a fish dish with curry, ginger, lemongrass, and coconut, accompanied by cauliflower and Yamani rice with cashews and raisins. It was fantastic, mainly because the fish was so fresh but also because the dish was an explosion of flavor; the spices worked together really well. I went for a polenta and ricotta pie covered with Mediterranean sauce—a tomato based vegetable sauce. My dinner was also good but the sauce was not quite as flavorful as I had hoped for. Dessert was two coffees and a chocolate marquise with caramelized pear and berries. It was creamy and rich, the perfect end to the meal.

This was one of those rare nights out where we did not order a bottle of wine. We were in a healthy mood, so we ordered a jarra (pitcher) of the ginger lemonade, which was fresh and lovely. The wine list was short, but with some organic options, which are harder to find in Buenos Aires.

The dinner was 250 Argentine Pesos total for the both of us, which I consider a great deal for dinner in Buenos Aires, especially considering the freshness of all of the ingredients (the fish!). Our server was the only one in the restaurant, yet she was prompt, attentive and had a very relaxed air. I loved that the music was soft and mellow and allowed conversation. I would have sat at Artemisia all night and will definitely be going back soon.

Cabrera 3877 and Gorriti 5996

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Argentina Wine Review – Broquel Malbec, Trapiche

The Trapiche winery in Mendoza, Argentina, is definitely one of the biggest players out there. With over 30 million liters in vat capacity and another 14 million liters in tank capacity… and 2.7 million liters in barrel capacity (that is a TON of barrels… OMG), they are second only to Catena in size. They make all sorts of brands and varietals that you have undoubtedly heard of from the Trapiche varietal line which features nearly every varietal under the sun, from Malbec, to Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and many others, to the next line up which is the Trapiche Oak Cask, to their third line which is the Trapiche Broquel.

The more I investigate into the larger wineries’ production methods, the more I find that blending of the same varietal from different vineyards (and by definition terroir) is a common technique used to achieve certain flavor characteristics. The Trapiche Broquel Malbec is no exception. Several different vineyards contribute Malbec grapes to this wine, with an average age of 25 year old vines, altitudes ranging from 900 meters to 1200 meters above sea level, and mostly clay soils with boulders underneath.

Trapiche has over 1000 hectares (about 2000 acres) of its own vineyard land, of varying soil types and terroir.

The Broquel Malbec, which can be found easily on many shelves in both Argentina and the United States, is another example of a solid, classic expression of Malbec from Mendoza. A deeper purple color with violet hues, plum and plum jam notes on the nose with hints of cocoa and coffee from the 15 months oak barrel treatment. I have to assume that the oak was 2nd use as the price of this wine is from 11.99 to 12.99 which would make it near impossible to have used new barrels. In addition, the oak notes are very subtle. On the palate this wine is soft and fruity on the front but there was a bit of sharpness on the finish.

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Argentina Wine Review – Alamos Malbec, Catena Zapata Winery

I thought I had reviewed this wine a while back, but it turns out that I elected to review the Alamos Cabernet before. The Alamos Argentine wine brand, from Bodegas Catena Zapata, is the most widely distributed Argentine wine brand in the world, with more that 1 million cases of 12 imported to the United States last year.
The Alamos Malbec, of course, is the highest case production and the most distributed of all of the varietals that Alamos does.
This wine retails for between 9.99 and 12.99 in the United States, and in Argentina, where it is just as widely distributed, it retails for about 25-35 pesos, and at restaurants can go for about 55 pesos.
At times the Alamos Malbec can be quite a nice wine. It really depends on the particular conditions of the store and which lot of Malbec the Alamos actually is. The issue with a massively produced wine, like Yellowtail or Woodbridge or Gallo is product consistency. It is very hard to make a wine, that ages and changes over time, to taste the same from bottle to bottle because of several factors.
First, they don’t distribute all of the wine of a given vintage at the same time. Why? Well let’s just estimate that Catena produces 10 million liters of Malbec per year for the Alamos label. It’s not like all 10 million of those liters of wine can be bottled, labelled, shipped, stored or consumed all at the same time. There is a production process and it depends on consumption.
Second, given the time of year, the region of the world, the shop where you are buying the wine, and many other “climactic factors” (like temperature in storage, temperature fluctuation, light exposure, and so forth), the wine will taste different.
Third, because demand is so high for this wine, there are many different production facilities that actually make this wine, and thus many different sources for it, creating further variability.
All said, the Alamos Malbec is most often a consistent example of what Malbec can be: soft, easy drinking and affordable. It is not going to knock your socks off but it will get the job done.

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Argentine Wine Review – Trumpeter Malbec, Rutini Wines

Rutini is up there with Catena and Norton as one of the biggest and oldest wineries in Argentina. Founded in 1885 by Mr Rutini (Felipe was his name), the Rutini winery has over 250 hectares of vineyard lands from which it makes Malbec and many other varietal wines.

Interestingly, one of our gems from a while back, the Cavagnaro Malbec, used to be associated with the Rutini Winery. In fact, the winery used to be called “Bodegas Rutini y Cavagnaro” as it was owned by the two families. The Cavagnaro family sold their share about 50 years ago, though, and the Rutini winery has been the big neighbor ever since, making mass produced brands like Trumpeter.

The Trumpeter Malbec is a wine from Argentina that you will see not only in wine shops and on wine lists in the United States but it is also well distributed in Buenos Aires, the interior of Argentina, and many other countries around the world.

You may see me say this a lot on this wine blog, but this is another classic example of Mendoza Malbec. There are many of these floating around and even more these days it seems. What I always look for in a wine is something unique and something that speaks to me. I would never throw this wine down the drain, but it is also fairly generic. Good ripe black fruits in the nose like black currant and black cherry with a little bit of a spice component. In the mouth you have more nice black fruits, notably blackberry, with a touch of cocoa. This wine is not particularly long but is pleasant enough. I would not use the term round as there is a touch of sharpness on the finish.

If you want to visit the Rutini winery in Maipu, Mendoza, you will certainly pass by their former business partners, who are their neighbors, the Cavagnaros. I certainly recommend you stop there, visit Julian Cavagnaro and try his Malbecs and his olive oil.

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Argentine Wine Review – El Felino Malbec

One of the first Malbec from Mendoza that I ever tried was the El Felino brand from Vina Cobos. I originally picked it up because of its “critter label”. If you don’t know what a critter label is in the wine industry it is basically a label with a cute animal on it. This phenomenon started in Australia with the infamous Yellow Tail brand, which sports a classic Australian symbol, the kangaroo. Now Australia happens to be blessed with several critters that are quintessentially Aussie, namely the Koala, crocodile and kangaroo, but this did not stop Argentina from following it its footsteps.

El Felino (“The Feline” – with a picture of a cat), and other critter labels from Vina Cobos like El Cocodrilo – “The Crocodile” and a few others which they have phased out over the years, very easily drew your attention because of the cute animal on the label. This Malbec, and many other Argentine wines and wineries, attempted to repeat the formula that Australia made famous. Argentina did do this but their success was not due to labels over the last 5 years it was due to price to quality relationship.

The price to quality relationship in El Felino Malbec, when I originally tried it in 2007, was outstanding. I have to say that it is still a very good Malbec, and a classic example, from famous winemaker Paul Hobbs. It should be noted that Paul Hobbs has played a huge role in the history of wine making, wine export and the development of the wine business in Argentina. I jokingly refer to this at our wine tastings in Buenos Aires as the journey to Mecca: when Paul Hobbs came to Mendoza in 1988 and met Nicolas Catena, owner of the Catena Zapata winery, the biggest winery in Argentina, and helped them reform their wine making practices to become export worthy.

Anyway, if you are looking for a good entry level wine with decent price to quality relationship the El Felino Malbec will be a solid choice. It is a classic example of Malbec from Mendoza and has a neat little story to boot.

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Buenos Aires Restaurant Review – Bangalore

I regularly go to Palermo, a barrio in Buenos Aires, on the weekends to go out. A few weekends ago I was led to a particular pub called Bangalore and while getting drinks there was told it was actually a decent place to eat. So a week or so ago after enjoying a Buenos Aires wine tasting I decided to experience the food for myself as well, since it is nice to have a break from the carnivorous diet here once in a while. Named after the capital of an India state it should be no surprise to anyone that Bangalore specializes in Indian cuisine.

Upstairs they have a small restaurant area, that is a little cramped and warm, but does the job. The best is the table in the corner where you can sit on the floor on all sorts of nice cushy pillows. There are several different types of Indian curry there, all of which I tried, and all of which I can say are of very high quality, although they are a bit spendy as well.

Located on Humboldt 1416, with its warm wooden chairs and tables, ceiling fans, and genial atmosphere Bangalore reminds me of a few London pubs I visited during my trip to Europe. Downstairs is a relaxed comfortable area where the most popular drinks ordered are jugs of gin, and they have a great beer menu, with some artesanal brews and sometimes cask ales.

After finishing up some craft brew, a much different experience than tasting Malbec and Torrontes varietal wines, I went down to the bar which began to fill with a decent mix of porteños and expats and began my night out on the town. Overall, the best things about Bangalore are the great atmosphere, the well-priced food, and the great location. So if you’re in the mood for some curry one night head over to Bangalore and indulge yourself.

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